Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Monday, April 27, 2009
Day whatever
I woke the boys up at 4:30am with breakfast and coffee ready. They ate and we loaded the van with the gear and the most important item...a sleeping Carmen. There didn't appear to be a cloud in the sky for pictures of the sunrise from the Shenandoah River, but as I was driving back to the house I noticed that Andy very well might get some color this morning. They will see some wildlife for sure. Yesterday there was a lot of people on the river, but today being a workday for most the boys should have the river to themselves and the various animals that they will come across.
They got off without a problem this morning and I'm too hopped up on coffee to go back to sleep.
I want to give a special "thank you" to Andrew Keller who allowed us to use his beautiful property last night to take out and put back in this morning. It will be a place I remember always because that is where Carmen caught her first fish. Uncle John bought her a "big girl" fishing pole because now she is a professional fisherwoman! Thanks Uncle John.
Hopefully the boys won't be on the river all day today. I think they are doing 12 miles and I'll be taking them out at Morgans Ford in Warren County. At least I don't have to cross the low water bridge! Have a wonderful day and thanks for reading along.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
I am back out for another day and this time it is to Strasburg or swamp.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
What takes people 10 miles and 15 minutes to get from Woodstock to Strasburg on Route 11 is an easy journey by car. By river, it has been 30 miles and two days because of the meandering river. It will still take another day to get to Strasburg. During the 1800s, men loaded these long boats called gundalows and floated down the North Fork to Front Royal and then on to Harpers Ferry where their goods (such as flour and iron) would be moved by the C&O Canal or later by train to the east coast cities. The gundalows were also sold for wood since there was no way for the boats to get back up river. After selling their goods and boats, these men would walk back up the valley to return home. I have a greater appreciation for these men of long ago whose job it was to float down the river to bring products to market. They probably saw similar things that I have been seeing.
With the last couple days of sunny weather, the wildlife has come out. The wildlife is smart enough to stay inside during bad weather leaving only crazy people and nature photographers insane enough to be out in cold, rainy, high waters and big rapids as it was earlier this week. The water then was a dark green but now it has turned more of an olive color and clearing up.
The wildlife of the last few days starts with turtles, muskrats, many deer on many occasions and John said he saw a mink, which is possible since I have seen a mink on another trip. The bird list starts with the most common such as great blue herons, green herons, belted kingfishers, mallards, wood ducks, canada geese which are just now having the young. I have seen two sets of goslings and one of ducklings. To finish the list are orioles, ospreys, mergansers and eagles.
Great wildlife is all around us here in the valley. A good reason to take care of what we have.
After the wonderfully cold night on the Hovatter farm, Rob (Andy's oldest brother) and Andy headed down the river leaving Carmen, John, and me (Nina) to break down camp. The "night log" made it through the night so we had enough firewood to have a morning fire. John and Carmen did some fishing while we waited for the tent to dry and then loaded up gear and headed home.
The next stop was at the Inn at Narrow Passage, which is a bed and breakfast lovely inn. The owners, Ellen and Ed Markel (1-800-459-8002) gave Andy and John a FREE room! That was very nice of them and helped us out tremendously. Ed had breakfast waiting for them and there was a crackling fire in the fire place. They had grapefruit and "pain-par-dous," which means French Toast to ya'll non-Cajuns. Andy made some really nice pictures of the breakfast set up and the boys standing in front of the fire. Apparently, John got Mr. Ed all fired up talking politics. You know the Politzs', always causing trouble (myself included)!!!
After having a wonderful breakfast and a good night sleep at the Inn at Narrow Passage, John and Andy got a late start and we also had car issues, so Carmen stayed with Uncle John and he taught her how to cast with her fishing pole. The plan was for Carmen and Uncle John to fish that night, but they rolled in right at dusk, so she didn't get to fish.
I set up camp for the boys at Stonewall Mill. This is a private piece of property next to the river owned by Mr. Frank Cihlar. He gave Andy permission to camp on his property. Mr. Frank has done a beautiful job preserving the mill and making it a beautiful place to see. I set up camp by myself because Nancy Thayer (grandmother a/k/a "Tutu") watched Carmen at the house while I did the manual labor and then she brought her to me on the river to wait for the boys to make it to camp. I lit the lanterns and placed them as close to the river that I could. Right before dusk I saw Uncle John's head lamp coming down the river. I was happy to see that the boys made it before it got too dark to see. They barely got wet, but did have to carry the boat and equipment around three different obstacles in the river. Andy will have to give you more information on that.
The boys were gone when Mrs. Jackie Sager dropped me off at the campsite...still having car issues, but not anymore thanks to Ms. Jackie!! The boys had a wonderful night sleep last night on Mr. Frank's property. He showed up this morning and I got to meet him and his wonderful family while I was tearing down the tent. (I got my first war wound by busting my knuckle. I've broken several nails, but those don't count.) Mr. Frank is a very nice man with a beautiful home and was happy to allow Andy to camp on his property and told me that he wished that he could do the journey with Andy.
Everyone that we have met so far along the way has been so nice and helpful. I hope the journey continues along those lines.
I think that tonight Andy, John, Carmen and I will be having dinner with the "Friends of the North Fork." I don't know the details, but I'm sure I will be filling ya'll in when I get back in this evening or tomorrow morning. Have a wonderful day everyone. It's a beautiful day to be on the river and keep those boys in your prayers so that they can stay safe, but most importantly have a wonderful time. I know that Andy is having the time of his life and John is enjoying himself now that the rain has stopped!
More later...
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Today, my brother has joined me for the day. John needed a break after three days of rain, high waters and big rapids. After those conditions, he deserves a break for helping me get through all that. Rob Thayer will be stepping in the canoe today. During the morning, there were some clouds which always makes the light more interesting. There were some strong winds on the river that blew us around a bit. By afternoon, it was all sun. So the animals were out.
Saw ospreys on many occasions. Great Blue Herons, kingfishers, green herons and turtles. Yesterday, I saw a bald eagle soaring far above us. The next few days look sunny so I will get more chances to photograph the wildlife.
One note on the day 6 journey. John and I came upon a rapid that was the most difficult for the day. Between Timberville and New Market is a falls called Plains Mill Falls. It occurs right after a sharp left bend. Leaving little time to pick your course. We picked the correct course but took on lots of water from the waves. So a quick pull over after the rapid for some bailing was required.
Today's only big rapid was after passing Red Banks called the ledges falls as there are a few ledges that drop for a total of about five feet. Rob and I choose our line and had to make a quick left turn to avoid a rock at the bottom of the last ledge. I was here last summer and the water level was so low that floating through was impossible. I thought that with the right amount of water would make this a good rapid. I was right.
Tonight, we won't be needing the tent. Ellen and Ed Markel are hosting us at their bed and breakfast next to the Shenandoah River near Woodstock. www.innatnarrowpassage.com I am looking forward to their breakfast and know that it will be a great start to the next of my journey down the Shenandoah River.
One last note about the night in Mt. Jackson. I talked my wife and daughter to camp with us. They did and Carmen got her smores.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
21 April Day 5
Brocks Gap to Timberville
The day begins with some fog and soon the sun breaks through. It is a welcome sight from yesterday's rain. The previous day was filled with fast water and rapids. The water level has dropped a little today but it is still fast. After floating through some nice rapids and the Route 259 bridge at Cootes Store, we approach our first major obstacle, Battle Bluff low water bridge. We pull into a little cove just before the bridge on the right and beach the canoe. I grab my camera, a snack and walk to the bridge for a closer look and a photo.
The water level is high enough that it's flowing over the bridge. After some discussion, we agree on the line we want and get back into the canoe for the ride. We approach the bridge straight on. The front of the canoe slams through the first big wave and water pours all over us. We ride out the next few rapids and look for a place to pull over and do some water bailing. The canoe took on a lot of water but stayed afloat. The canoe has been tough and able to get through fine under some difficult situations and weather. Thanks to Josh Warner at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports in Warrenton for their help in finding me the canoe.
After we get all the water out of the canoe, clouds move in and it begins to rain. Which means I won't be getting my camera out as often as I would like.
This concludes the first part of today's journey. I will include a photo of the low water bridge we rode.
Monday, April 20, 2009
The day started with rain and that continued during the whole day in the form of rain, drizzle or sprinkles. The river rose a couple feet during the day creating many large rapids. Not long after Lairs Run bridge, there was a big tree laying across the river. We pulled off the side for a moment to contemplate our options. The tree was stable looking and in between some limbs hanging down and the distance between the trunk and the water level looked like an opening just big enough for us to squeeze through. After a discussion, we set off and was successful in shooting the gap. However, until the tree is dealt with, this is a dangerous obstacle.
More rapids, more rain. The river is up and moving fast. The river flow doesn't give us much time to prepare and look at the next rapids to chose our line. We have been choosing some good lines with big waves. As we crash into each wave, water flies over the bow and drenches me. It's cold water but I'm having fun. A few stops had to be made this day so that we could bail the water out of the canoe that accumulates with every rapid.
We finally reach our lunch objective by the afternoon. Wet, cold and hungry, we staggered into Fulks Run Grocery next to the river. Ron and Peggy Turner run the store. John and I, each order a hot pork barbecue sandwich and a suger-cured county ham sandwich. During our conversation about the weather, Ron and Peggy mention that on their Ramon's Brownie Calender it says that there will be rain on April 20. I now realize that I have using the wrong calender. Peggy gives me a calender so that I can better prepare for rest of the year. We thank them for the great sandwiches and visit then continue on.
Downstream from the store, we see off in the distance the white tops of rapids. The river narrows, the rapids begin and then the river turns left because of a rocky outcrop on the right. After the turn, more rapids. We near the rapids and see that they are about four to five feet in height, the largest we've seen on this trip. We hit it straight on and some of each wave ends up in the canoe. Turning to the left, more waves, more water on board but we made it through.
Now a new situation arises. We went through so many big waves that the canoe is filled up to our sets with water and dangerously close to swamping. We quickly paddle to shore and take out so we can begin bailing water. After the canoe is back in order, I gather a few pieces of trash laying around. At every stop we have made, there was always some trash laying around. Today's trash bag that I have brought along for this day's trash clean up contains such items as beer cans, soda cans and bottles, plastic bags, one quart of oil bottle and a soleless tennis shoe. I may not save the world, but I can leave a place better than the way I found it.
We ended today's trip at Bennie's Beach in Brocks Gap. With the canoe out of the river, we walk up to the resturaunt for a cold beer and hot vegetable soup after a cold, rainy day We meet Buzzy Taylor who sets us up with what we need. My wife and daughter pick us up so that we head home tonight to warm up and dry out for tomorrow's rainy looking weather. The river today was up and fast and there were a couple of rapids and trees that needed special attention but overall, an excellent day.
The other photos will be the spring itself where the river begins. A waterfall on the German River. Dying hemlocks with many branches on the ground. Dangerous place to be on a windy day. Friday is a bright sunny day and no wind.
First Day in the Canoe by Nina
Sunday, April 19, 2009
I got up before dawn to see what the sunrise would be and saw an overcast sky. The sun will rise but I won't be able to see it. We have some breakfast and pack up. As we are the days journey, I soon discover that the spaghetti dinner I had promised my daughter and wife was to be held today for lunch, Sunday. By that time, we will have moved on down the road.
However, my daughter did get her spaghetti dinner. They say around here that when you pass through Brocks Gap you are going "out the way". Saturday night, I took my family "out the way" to Timberville for spaghetti. Dinner ended and a happy child and wife dropped us off at base camp for the third night of camping.
Along the trek on the third day, we see little white flowers called bloodroot, one of the first forest flowers to appear. We find our way to the Bergton store to buy some snacks. Just beyond the store, the German River and Crab Run converge to become the North Fork.
Our next stop is Blue Hole, the name of a place along the North Fork. I get the cameras out for some photos and then take a break. There is some trash around the area and we pick up what we can as we have been doing all along the way. I encourage everyone to try and leave a place better than the way you found it. I think there will always be people who just don't care. The bright side is anyone can make a difference.
The hiking continued into the Fulks Run area until we reached our destination. We will begin the canoeing part of this journey tomorrow, Monday. The weather looks like it will be raining the next two days. If one goes on the river, one must expect to get wet either from below or from above. There won't be many photos because of rain.
Tomorrow we will be canoeing "out the way", rain or shine.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Day one and Day Two of the Journey
Day One:
The day started before sunrise. The temperature was just above freezing with some wind. The sun rose to a cloudless sky, so not the best photo opportunity. From our vantage point, the peaked mountains off the Massanuttan Mountains is in the distance with the Blue Ridge Mountains beyond. We hiked to the spring, filled up some water bottles and get some to drink. After some photos were taken, I look around and find a deet path and begin the decent through the mountain laurel that is not yet in bloom. After some time, John Politz and I begin to enter the dying forest of the hemlocks. There is a nasty parasite that is slowly killing these beautiful trees and soon they will all be gone. As we head down the mountain ther are many streams that feed into the German River making it much bigger the father we walk. It was becoming more difficult to crossthe stream or river. We may soon end up with wet feet, but that's all part of the journey.
We reach the bottom and arrive at our campsite by late afternoon. It was another cold night, but at least this campsite has dry wood for a roaring campfire. All in all it was an excellent day.
Day 2:
The sun may rise at 6:30am, but in the narrow hollow or "holler" as the locals say, the sun didn't shine until long after sunrise (around 9:30am). We started hiking and with each mile the valley floor begins to widen into the farmland community of Criders. We stop at the Crider's Store for some lunch and to visit with the locals. The owner, Sue Siever serves John and I two good "healthy" cheeseburger with french fries.
The hike continues until we reach our next campsite. Nearby was a little waterfall that drops into the German river. We stop for some photos.
We are meeting my wife, Nina Thayer and my daughter Carmen at the campsite to resupply and deliver the camping equipment. I had heard that the locals were having a spagetti dinner tonight and was looking forward to joining them, but I guess the fundraiser was cancelled. There were no cars and no sign of any people which lead me to believe that there would be no spagetti dinner, so we hoped in the van and drove to Broadway or "down the way" as the locals say and had pizza at a local resturant while Carmen had spagetti with her sauce on the side. Carmen had her heart set on having spagetti for dinner and I didn't let her down. After eating dinner and picking up a few odds and ends at the local Food Lion, we headed back to the campsite to end another spectacular day on my two week journey.
I'll have more to say tomorrow. (I'm sure Andy will have something to say about the little add libs that I put in, Ha-ha). I do have one note that my wonderful husband is too nice to mention, but I can't let this pass. No, maybe I'll leave ya'll in suspence and let Andy tell the story of Bud Waddell's eventful day carrying the camping equipment from the top of the mountain to the second camp sight!! Make sure you ask so he'll be forced to tell! Funny story and all part of the trip!
Thanks to all of ya'll interested in this journey and there will be more updates to come.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Headwaters
In April 2008, I made a couple trips to the headwaters. The spring is below the crest of the mountain within a thicket of mountain laurel and trees. Mountain laurel usually blooms in June, so I am a couple months early. Right now, Spring is happening around the Shenandoah Valley floor, flowers are out. The redbud blossoms are here but are not peaking. The dogwoods will begin to blossom. On top of the mountain, the Spring season is just beginning to arrive.
Downstream from the spring and the mountain laurel is a dead forest of eastern hemlock trees. They died a few years ago and are still in the process of falling down. The hemlock is being devastated by the an insect called the woolly adelgid. The insect first arrived on the North American west coast in the 1920s and made it to the east coast in 30 years, destroying forests along the way. This forest is one of its latest victims.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
I am all packed up and ready to begin. The canoe is ready to be dropped into the Shenandoah River. I would like to thank Josh Warner at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports in Warrenton (www.brmsstore.com) for helping me with the canoe and accessories. With my camping and hiking gear, Steve and Gayle Shaffer at the Blue Canoe Crew (www.bluecanoecrew.com) store in Woodstock helped get me prepared for the journey. These people and businesses enjoy the outdoors and are dedicated in trying to preserve nature for us and generations to come.
I have some last minute grocery shopping to do for the final preparations of the journey. One more trip to the store should make it all complete.
I plan on being at the top of the mountain when the sun rises on Friday for some photos before I start hiking. With a little luck and the right weather conditions, the sunrise could be a spectacular show. We will see.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
If you want to check out some more photos from a float last year, go to my web. www.athayer.com
On a journey, I would start from point A and head towards the general area of point B. I always try to take a different path along the way to see something new. Sometimes, it is the different path that makes the journey worth it.
However, this river journey has a definite path from point A to B making it unique to the other journeys I have made including the fact that I will be in a canoe and not in a dry, comfortable car. There are many unknowns to any journey. There are many parts of this river that I have not been on and always the question of, "What will I see around the next bend?"
A river has its own environment different from the countryside. The trees, plants and wildlife provide a unique experience for anyone. I recommend that everyone should have the opportunity to see what this environment provides whether it be on the river or by it. Time seems to slow down and when you slow down, you see so much more. However one chooses to visit nature, safety is necessary in the journey. So plan ahead and be prepared.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Monday, April 6, 2009
The message is about how we need to take care of the environment and our rivers because it is the water we all depend on for our food and drinking water. I thought what a great idea to get the word out about how we need to be responsible with our resources in nature.
Soon after, my daughter was born and I became a stay-at-home dad. Everything else became secondary to my daughter. Then the fish started dying in large numbers in the Shenandoah River. Development of subdivisions and shopping malls began chewing up the land at an alarming rate. I began to think that maybe with my camera and a canoe, I could in some way help protect and preserve the Shenandoah River and Valley. Now that my daughter is five and I am not getting any younger, now is the time.
Joe Cook is the riverkeeper for the Coosa River and the executive director for the Coosa River Basin Initiative, a grassroots environmental organization dedicated in protecting the Coosa River Basin. You can visit the webs of Joe Cook and the CRBI to get a better understanding of there mission. www.coosa.org and joecook.net